Tharnang Lhakhang
Tharnang Goenpa (Lhakhang) was established by Gelong
Jabthangpa (Wangpo) around 19th century. The place where the
lhakhang stands is believed to have been blessed by Lam Jangchu Tshendru, the
root teacher of Trongsa Penlop Jigme Namgyel (Father of First King of Bhutan,
Ugyen Wangchuck). The present Goenpas is believed to have been built by Gelong
Jabthangpa, whose descendants still owns the Goenpa. The lama lived in the
village which lies at the base of the hill. Every morning at about 3 in the
morning, when the lama offered his prayers, he saw sun shining on the hill
where the Goenpa today stands. So, one day, the lama visited the place with
some of his students and blessed it with a small stupa built with stones.
Tharnang lhakhang
It was during the lama’s pilgrimage to Trongsa that
he met with Trongsa Penlop Jigme Namgyel. It is said that Jigme Namgyel sought
advice from the lama on his decision to become a monk under the lama. However,
the lama told him that he would need time to consult Mahakala (his protecting
deity) to answer him. The next morning, the Lama advised Penlop Jigme Namgyel
to lead the country rather than becoming a monk. The lama further prophesied
that the penlop will have a son who will become a great leader in the country. Thus,
Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuk was born and unified the country. The head of the raven
(believed to be the Mahakala) on the crown of the successive kings of Bhutan
was also designed by Lam Jangchu Tsendru, paying tribute to the protecting
deity. The lama also commanded the deity to always protect the successive kings
and the country.
Lam Jangchu Tshendru was very close with Tsang
Panchen (The root teacher of HH Dalai Lama), another great Buddhist master in
Tibet. While they were alive, they sculptured each other. They believed that if
they sculptured more, people in future may lose faith in them. So they just sculptured
three pieces each. One each statues of the great friends were brought to Bhutan
with him. After the completion of the statues, they consecrated each other’s
statue. Today the statue of Lam Jangchu tshendru (which is about 2 feet) sits
in the altar as one of the main relics. The statue of Tsang Panchen is inside
the heart of the Buddha statue where just the upper face of the statue is
visible. It is believed that when the whole statue submerges, the era of present
Buddha will end while Jowo Jampa’s will begin. According to the Goenpa’s
caretaker, the nose of the Tsang Panchen’s statue was visible but now it seems
to be submerging. The other two statues of the lamas are in Tibet.
The village as seen from the lhakhang
Gelong Jabthangpa was an ordinary person who was
experiencing village life like any other man until the age of 30 when he
decided to go to Tibet to peruse Buddhism. That was when he met Lam Jangchu
Tsendru and submitted himself to the great master. The master on the other
hand, accepted graciously and bestowed teachings and blessings. After spending
decades with the lama, Gelong Jabthangpa is said to have mastered everything
his root guru has bestowed. He was known as Wangpo when in Bhutan. After he
mastered all the teachings of his master, his root lama gave him the name as
Gelong Jabthangpa, a monk who has left everything to peruse religion. His root
teacher than advised him to go back to Bhutan and built a lhakhang where he has
stacked stones as a replica of a stupa. (Lam Jangchu Tsendru is said to have returned
to Tibet) The place was were the present Goenpa stands. Gelong Jabthangpa
requested his root lama to bless him with relics to be installed in the
lhakhang, thus his root lama shared the relics.
The most striking story about the Goenpa is the
presence of the statue of Lam Jangchu Tsendru. The statue wears a Buddhist ceremonial
hat. The statue is said to throw the hat without anyone’s notice to predict bad
omen. According to the caretaker, if the hat is just kept near the statue,
disaster is sure to strike the family while bad omen will befall on the village
if it thrown little further. If the hat is thrown farther away, disaster is
sure to befall in the country. The direction of the hat also determines where
the disaster will strike. The hat, according to the caretaker, lay on the floor
as if a human has kept it
diligently.
In early 2012, when the caretaker entered the altar
to make his offerings in the morning, the hat was in the center of the room
facing west. They could not predict where the disaster would befall, only to
hear the bad news about Wangdi Phodrang dzong being engulfed by fire on 24th
June, 2012. The eye of the statue was red and looked tired.
In another incident, the hat was found on the floor
facing east. Few weeks later, there was a huge unsuspected flood in Lhuntse
which caused damage to lives and properties.
In yet another story, the hat was found on the floor
again few months before the country was brought to stand still with detection of
Covid. 
The lhakhang as seen from the last village.
The last time the hat has fallen was in 2023. When two
lady pilgrims were prostrating, the hat mysteriously was found next to their
head. They were advised to perform rituals at home as the hat signaled bad omen
to befall on them.
The goenpa
has the statue of drupthob Saraha, one of the 108 arhatas. Lam Jangchu Tshendru
is the reincarnation of Saraha. There is a statue of Dorji chang and Guru
Rimpoche which were brought from Tibet. There is also a statue if Dechog, the
Yidam of Lam Jangchu Tshendru. It is said that the lam advised Trongsa Penlop
Jigme Namgyel to build a man-sized statue of Dechog to unify the nation and
before leaving for war in Dewathang. Today, we can receive blessings from the
Pel Dechog Khorlo which stands majestically in the Dechog Lhakhang in Trongsa
Dzong. The lama, who was residing at Trongsa Ta Dzong (watch tower), advised
Penlop Jigme Namgyel to time the firing of cannons with his rituals. As the
lama threw the blessed grains from Trongsa, Penlop Jigme Namgyel felt them on
his back in Dewathang which signaled the firing of the cannons, thus winning
the war.
The Raven Crown
There is a small chorten (Stupa) which contains the relics were retrieved from the ashes of Lam Jangchu Tsendru. The pilgrims can also receive blessings from the ceremonial hat of Lam Jangchu Tsendru.
Since it’s a private property, the lhakhang is
attached to private residence of the descendants. The Goenpas is about 40 minute
walk from the road point. Although one can drive till the lhakhang with 4x4
cars, it is best to walk to treat yourself to mesmerizing scenes.
The goenpa is said to have got its name “Tharnang”
as the disciples of the Gelong Jabthangpa got enlightened from the place. “Tharpai
Lam” in Buddhism means the way to enlightenment.
Some documents mentions the lhakhang as Tharnang Rithroed Lhakhang which was
established by Ngawang Drakpa. However, the author could not substantiate the
information further.
Note: The write up is solely based on the verbal interview with the caretaker of the Lhakhang. The author did not cite any other sources though few online related materials were read.
Picture courtesy of the Raven crown: https://www.orogtravel.com/a-brief-history-of-the-raven-crown/
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