Thangbi Lhakhang (Lhendrup Choeling)


The Thangbi Lhakhang was built in 15th century by the Fourth Zhamar Rimpoche Choekyi Drakpa (an important  Lama of Karma Kagyud sect), which corresponds to iron rat year of the lunar calendar (1480). Elders in the locality say that Terton Pema Lingpa also had his hand in the construction of the lhakhang. The presence of the iron chain at the entrance and the time (1480) supports the claim. Some sources denies the claim. The source, however believes that the lhakhang was later taken over by Pema Lingpa, thus becoming a Nyingma lhakhang.  

No written or oral history clarifies why the lhakhang was built at the location. However, records has another name for the lhakhang, Lhendrup Choeling. The lhakhang got the name in 1730 when the first floor was added to the ground floor. The project was initiated by the 8th Zhamar Choekyi Dendrup and blessed by 12th Karmapa Jangchub Dorji. However, the locality name has overtaken it and thus known as Thangbi Lhakhang.

During the time of the first Druk Gyalpo, the lhakhang got a major facelift with addition of Kanjur lhakhang. The new lhakhang houses Karmapa and Zhamarpa along with the kanjur.

The lhakhang was blessed by visit of successive Karmapas and Zhamarpas of which the 14th Zhamarpa Chokyi Lodroe and 16th Karmapa Rigpa Dorji are said to have visited the lhakhang three times.

The ground floor of the lhakhnag houses the Buddhas of three times of about 8 feet each. It also has the statues of Chana Dorji and Tandrim. The first floor houses the future Buddha, Jowo Jampa while the other side is home to the set of sacred Kanjur. The first floor has Goekhang adjacent to the Kanjur lhakhang.

A unique stripped rock of about 10 kilograms can be seen in the Jowo Lhakhang. According to the legend, the local deity promised and supplied the rocks for the construction of the lhakhang. The above rock was offered as the first offering by the deity.


One can also receive wealth blessing from the Yangdho (The wealth stone). Another black rock has the imprint of Pema Lingpa’s thumb. Few minutes from the lhakhang, there is a holy water (drupchu). The holy water is believed to be the ara (local wine) offered by the local deities during the construction of the lhakhang.

The lhakhang has a special room used by Sai Dopola, who was fondly known as Dasho Tashigangpa among the locals. The room is still preserved. Dasho Tanshigangpa is said to have died in Thangbi and was cremated just outside the lhakhang. Today, the creation place can be identified with a huge pile of rocks near the gate.

Among the festivals at the lhakhnag, the famous Thangbi Mewang is held in front of the lhakhang. The three day thsechu is held every year from 14th to 17th day of the eight month of the Bhutanese calendar which concludes with Thangbi Mewang (fire blessing) on the last day. Two huge fires will be ignited with dry hay and the devotees run through the fire to cleanse their bad luck. Although no death has been observed, few minor injuries has been seen every year. (The author has attended the festivals for four years) The people from three villages of Thangbi, Kharsa and Goling has been organizing the festival but the elders say that the grandeur and the charm of the festival is fading away.

The trademark of the tshechu is the mask dance of Goembernak where the dances have one of the trousers on the foot is folded while the other is let loose. Legend has it that the 2nd Karmapa Karma

Thangbi Mewang ( The fire blessing)**

Pakdhey, in Tibet, was tortured by the one of the local kings in China. He was hung from his beard. Lham (Mahakali) who is one of the chief protector of Karmapa reported it to the Goembernak (Black Mahakali). Goembernak on hearing this rushed to the king’s palace for punish the king. In hurry, he did not get time to fold one of the trousers. Goembernak threatened the king to crush the palace as he turned himself into a gaint. The king, sacred released Karmapa and begged for forgiveness.

 Although it was a community lhakhang, it has been about a year that it is offered to Trongsa dratshang. The present lam of the Lhakhang as renovated the lhakhang both inside and outside. The lhakhang is nestled on a flat plain in the heart of Thangbi village. It is about 2.5kms from Kujey lhakhang. The lhakhang is connected with paved road.

 Photo courtesy: ** http://www.yelhabhutantour.com/tour-packages/festival-tours/thangbi-mani-festival-10-days/


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