Baylangdra Ney (The Hidden Land)
Introduction
Baylangdra Ney is a sacred Buddhist site located approximately 21 kilometres from Chuzomsa along the Wangdue–Trongsa Highway. The journey to Baylangdra Ney involves travelling through a scenic and spiritually significant landscape.
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| The chorten at Kathok Yoesel Samtenling Monastery. The Baylangdra Ney can be seen on the background. |
From the old monastery of His Holiness Kathok Rinpoche, visitors can walk towards the ney along a concrete footpath. The hike is a rewarding experience, taking visitors through the woods and allowing them to enjoy the peaceful natural surroundings before reaching the sacred site.
Baylangdra is regarded as one of the important sacred places associated with Guru Rinpoche and several renowned Tertons (Treasure Revealers). The site is believed to possess extraordinary spiritual significance, and numerous masters are said to have meditated and revealed treasures here.
The name Baylangdra is derived from the words Bayuel, meaning "hidden land", Lang, meaning "ox" in the local dialect, and Dra, meaning "cliff". Thus, Bayuelangdra, later shortened to Baylangdra, is understood as the "hidden land protected by the deity who rides an ox." The protector of the place, Terda Langdrakpa, is traditionally depicted riding an ox.
Guru Rinpoche and the Sacredness of Baylangdra
According to local tradition, Guru Rinpoche himself visited and meditated at Baylangdra. It is said that Guru Rinpoche declared that meditating for one month at Baylangdra was equivalent to meditating for one year at other sacred places, while meditating for three days at Baylangdra was equivalent to a month of meditation elsewhere.
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| The main Lhakhang of Baylangdra |
The site is also believed to be spiritually connected to the sacred cremation ground of Selwatshe in India. According to tradition, when Guru Rinpoche visited the cremation ground in India, he blessed Baylangdra through his extraordinary spiritual powers. Therefore, it is believed that those who are unable to travel to India to visit the sacred cremation grounds may receive similar spiritual blessings by visiting Baylangdra.
Guru Rinpoche is said to have spent a week meditating at the cliff in the form of an ordinary layperson. During this time, the local treasure protector, Langdrakpa, became furious upon seeing an unfamiliar person meditating at the sacred site. Riding his ox, he approached Guru Rinpoche at great speed.
Guru Rinpoche is said to have defeated Langdrakpa and cut him into three pieces. As Langdrakpa was nearing death, he pleaded with Guru Rinpoche to spare him and promised to protect Buddhism and its practitioners. Guru Rinpoche then restored him, gave him vows, and appointed him as the protector of the hidden treasures of Baylangdra.
The Tertons and Great Masters of Baylangdra
Baylangdra has been visited by six Tertons (Treasure Revealers). Among them were:
• Terton Chogdhen Gyempo
• Terchen Pema Lingpa
• Terton Sherab Mebar
• Terton Dorji Lingpa
The great master Jamyang Drakpa Yözer, the heart-son of Künkhyen Longchen Rabjam, is also said to have visited and meditated at Baylangdra. According to tradition, 21 of his
disciples attained enlightenment and realised the rainbow body at the sacred site.
These accounts have contributed greatly to Baylangdra's reputation as a powerful place for meditation, spiritual practice and the revelation of hidden treasures.
Terton Dorji Lingpa and the Treasure Revelation
One of the most significant events associated with Baylangdra is the treasure revelation of Terton Dorji Lingpa.
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| The mesmarising scene f rom the Ney |
Terton Dorji Lingpa agreed and travelled to Baylangdra, promising to meditate there for one week. However, after six days of meditation, he experienced no indication or prophecy. Believing that Terda Langdrakpa had deceived him, the Terton became angry and cursed the protector.
On the morning of the seventh day, however, an extraordinary vision appeared before him. Terton Dorji Lingpa saw a beautiful girl of approximately sixteen years of age standing amidst a rainbow. She was holding a treasure vase and pointed towards the cliff, asking the Terton to look in that direction.
When he looked at the cliff, he saw a young boy of about seven years of age surrounded by rainbows. The boy instructed him not to leave Baylangdra and encouraged him to continue his meditation, assuring him that he had indeed been prophesied to reveal a treasure.
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| The old monastery of HH Kathok Situ Rimpoche. The first lhakhang was built by HH Jadrel Rimpoche. |
The Terton realised that the young boy was Guru Rinpoche, while the beautiful girl was a Dakini.
Following this extraordinary vision, Terton Dorji Lingpa decided to extend his meditation at Baylangdra for another seven months.
At dawn on the final day of his meditation, the Terton noticed an unusual and pleasant fragrance. As he looked towards the cliff, he saw a religious text emerging from the rock. This was the treasure he had been prophesied to reveal.
The revealed treasure was Thuje Chhenpo Nyesung Künchop.
Wombha Ney and the Sacred Cliff
Wombha Ney, also known as the Lower Sacred Place, is located several hundred metres below the main Baylangdra temple.
The sacred site has a one-storey temple, or Lhakhang. Behind the Lhakhang is the sacred cliff where Terton Dorji Lingpa is believed to have meditated during his time at
Baylangdra.
It was at this sacred site that Terton Dorji Lingpa received the prophecy and later revealed the religious treasure text. Wombha Ney therefore forms an important part of the sacred landscape and pilgrimage tradition of Baylangdra.
The Four-Storey Main Temple
The main temple of Baylangdra is remarkably perched on a cliff and consists of four storeys, each serving a different religious or residential purpose.
The ground floor is used as the residence of the caretaker responsible for looking after the temple and the sacred site.
The first floor houses statues of Guru Rinpoche, His Holiness the late Jadrel Rinpoche, and the Tertons associated with the sacred site.
The second floor contains the main altar of the temple. Among the important sacred images is Chenrigzig Yab-Yum, whose description is said to have been mentioned in the treasure text revealed by Terton Dorji Lingpa. The male figure is depicted in red, and the statue is believed to be wish-fulfilling.
On the right side of Chenrigzig is his son, Norbu Zimpa, who holds a jewel (Norbu) in his hand, giving him his name. On the left is his daughter, Paythrin, who holds a lotus flower (Pema Meto).
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| Kathok Yoesel Samtenling Monastery |
The top floor houses the altar of Buddha Yödsung. Behind the alter, one can see the rock in the shape of an ox’s head and toungue. These body parts, according to the lhakhang caretaker belongs to Langdrakpa.
The four-storey temple, dramatically situated on the cliff, is one of the most remarkable features of Baylangdra and serves as the spiritual centre of the sacred site.
Just above the roof of the temple, one can see the footprint of Guru Rimpoche on a vertical cliff. About twenty meters away from the footprint, one can also see print of Namcha Reldri (The lightning sword). A small water source emerges from the cliff outside the lhakhang. The water is beleieved to be Tsechu, the water of longivity, which is associatated to Jetsuen Milarepa.
The Hidden Relics and the Path to Heaven
Behind the Choesham (altar), visitors can see a distinctive piece of rock resembling the lid of a container, which appears to be sealed against the cliff.
According to local belief, sixty relics are hidden within the cliff and have been sealed there. The key to the entrance of the hidden relic chamber is said to be concealed within the Uzha* (hat) of Guru Rinpoche.
The key is believed to be made of pure gold and shaped like the head of a horse.
The entrance to the hidden relics is traditionally believed to be guarded by a scorpion. A marking resembling the imprint of a scorpion can still be seen clearly on the rock.
Another remarkable feature is a series of ring-like markings on the rock. According to local belief, these markings represent a path leading to heaven. The path is said to end at the top floor of the temple.
Guru Rinpoche's Uzha
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| Guru Rimpoche's footprint on the cliff. |
The Uzha is located approximately five kilometres towards Wangdue from Kathok Yösel Samtenling Monastery, the seat of His Holiness the 5th Kathok Situ Rinpoche.
It is said to be the first sacred site encountered when travelling towards Baylangdra and is regarded as another important place of pilgrimage. According to local belief, prayers and wishes made at the site may be fulfilled.
Terda Langdrakpa
Terda Langdrakpa is regarded as the traditional protector of Baylangdra and is depicted riding an ox. The name Langdrakpa is therefore closely associated with the sacred landscape and the protector deity of the site.
Langdrakpa is traditionally believed to have ruled over the area even before Guru Rinpoche's visit. Following Guru Rinpoche's encounter with him, Langdrakpa became a protector of Buddhism and was entrusted with guarding the hidden treasures of the sacred site.
Sacred Places Around Baylangdra
The sacred landscape of Baylangdra extends beyond the main temple. Several places and landmarks along the route are associated with events from the life of Guru Rinpoche.
Goensakha
As one enters Baylangdra village, the first significant place encountered is Goensakha.
According to local tradition, Guru Rinpoche once stopped at the humble home of a local man. The man's neighbours asked who his guest was. The host, happy to have received a visitor, told them that he had a new guest staying with him.
The villagers did not realise that the guest was Guru Rinpoche. Guru Rinpoche is therefore said to have named the place Goensakha, meaning the place of the new guest.
The Cave of the One Hundred Thousand Dakinis
Approximately 1km further into the village is a secret sacred cave associated with one hundred thousand Dakinis who are believed to have meditated there.
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| Ngadra Ma (Just like me) statue of HH Jadrel Rimpoche at old Kathok Y oesel Samtenling Monastery |
Om Drangsa
As one continues upwards, there is a rock associated with an encounter between Guru Rinpoche and the local people.
It is said that the locals offered milk to Guru Rinpoche at this location. The place consequently became known as Om Drangsa, meaning the place where milk was served.
The Cypress Tree of Guru Rinpoche
Approximately one kilometre from Om Drangsa, on the way towards Kathok Yösel Samtenling Monastery, stands a large cypress tree.
According to tradition, the tree is believed to have originated from Guru Rinpoche's walking staff.
Guru Rinpoche is said to have made prayers to authenticate his prophecy concerning the concealment of treasures. He wished for the tree to grow if the prophecy was true.
The tree is believed to have continued growing and still stands today, serving as an important landmark associated with Guru Rinpoche.
Kathok Yösel Samtenling Monastery
Approximately 600 metres from the cypress tree is Kathok Yösel Samtenling Monastery, the seat of His Holiness the 5th Kathok Situ Rinpoche.
Before the establishment of the present monastery, the area is said to have contained a small temple situated in the middle of pastureland. According to the local history, the grass in the ;and resembled crest of a bird.
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| The seat of HH Jadrel Rimpoche |
Today, His Holiness Kathok Situ Rinpoche has established a monastery at the site.
Within the monastery premises, visitors can receive blessings from a pile of sacred rocks associated with the seat of His Holiness the late Jadrel Rinpoche. Above the monastery, a distinctive rock formation known as the Rock Couch can also be seen.
Approximately one kilometre from the monastery is the old monastery of His Holiness Kathok Rinpoche. There is also a Lhakhang built under the initiative of His Holiness the late Jadrel Rinpoche.
Today, His Holiness Kathok Situ Rinpoche spends time at the old monastery during his stays in Baylangdra.
Mani Dungdrup
An important annual religious practice at Baylangdra Ney is the Mani Dungdrup, during which one hundred million recitations of the Chenrigzig mantra are performed.
The Mani Dungdrup begins on the fourth day of the eighth Bhutanese month and concludes on the tenth day. The tenth day is particularly significant because it is believed to be the day on which Terton Dorji Lingpa revealed the treasure text from Wombha Ney.
Following the Mani Dungdrup, devotees continue with approximately two weeks of recitation of Guru Rinpoche's mantra.
Spiritual Significance
Baylangdra continues to be regarded as a highly sacred place for meditation, pilgrimage and spiritual practice. Its sacred landscape is deeply connected with Guru Rinpoche, Terton Dorji Lingpa, other Tertons, and numerous realised masters.
The journey to the sacred site itself is also part of the experience. Walking through the peaceful woods towards the ney offers pilgrims and visitors an opportunity to appreciate the natural beauty and tranquillity surrounding Baylangdra.
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| Baylangdra Village |
It is traditionally believed that wishes made at Baylangdra may be fulfilled, making the site an important destination for devotees seeking blessings, spiritual merit and a deeper connection with the sacred teachings of Guru Rinpoche.
Note:
There are many other religious and scared sites around, the author could not mention.
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