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Nyantse Lhakhang

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The Lhakhang was established by Nyangrel Nyima Wozer (1124/1136 - 1192/1204) in the 12th century. It is said that the lama shot an arrow from Tibet (During those days, most of the Buddhist masters were from Tibet, as Buddhism was yet to set its root in Bhutan) to seek his destiny to establish a Lhakhang. Following the direction of his arrow, the lama reached the place. The lama pulled out his arrow only to see holy water gushing out. Thus the place came to be known as CHUMED. "Chu" means water and "MED" means lower land. The Lhakhang is located at the end of Chumey gewog and the settlements. Today the gewog is better spelled as Chumey. This holy water is located about 40 meters from the lhakhang. According to the locals, the water can cure various illnesses. There are stories how the holy water has cured the warts of many people. The holy water is preserved in a wooden box, and the water looks fresh and clean. According to Karma Tenzin, a local from Nangar who now ...

The Taag Lhakhang

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 There is a small one-storied lhakhang about 200 meters from the Thangbi Lhakhang. The author could not authenticate the name of the lhakhang, but the locals call it as Taag Lhakhang. It is not known whether Taag refers to the horse or the tiger (In Dzognkha). The lhakhang was built by Lam Ngopa, a great Tibetan master in the 14th century. When Lam Ngogpa reached the top of the hill above the village, he threw a dumpling-shaped rock to check his prophecy. Descending down to the valley, Lam Ngogpa found the rock at the present location. Taking it as a good omen, Lam Ngogpa built the small temple. Lam Ngogpa is said to have established a lhakhang in Dhur, about 9kms from Kujey, and Lamlung, another Lhakhang in Tang. Both the temples are in Bumthang. Lam Ngogpa was one of the closest disciples of Lam Marpa. Lam Ngogpa is also reflected in Milarepa's namthar as the latter's friend who studied under the same master. Lam Ngogpa's Kudung chorten The lhakhang houses the Buddhas of ...

Thangbi Lhakhang (Lhendrup Choeling)

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The Thangbi Lhakhang was built in the 15 th century by the Fourth Zhamar Rimpoche Choekyi Drakpa (an important  Lama of the Karma Kagyud sect), which corresponds to the Year of the Iron Rat in the lunar calendar (1480). Elders in the locality say that Terton Pema Lingpa also had his hand in the construction of the lhakhang. The presence of the iron chain at the entrance and the time (1480) supports the claim. Some sources deny the claim. The source, however, believes that the lhakhang was later taken over by Pema Lingpa, thus becoming a Nyingma lhakhang.   No written or oral history clarifies why the lhakhang was built at the location. However, records have another name for the lhakhang, Lhendrup Choeling. The lhakhang got the name in 1730 when the first floor was added to the ground floor. The project was initiated by the 8 th Zhamar Choekyi Dendrup and blessed by the 12 th Karmapa Jangchub Dorji. However, the locality name has overtaken it and thus known as Thangbi Lhakha...

Druk Choding lhakhang

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  One prominent structure, as you enter Paro town, is a Lhakhang. The Lhakhang serves as an entry point to the ever-growing Paro town. Despite the close proximity to the town, not many visit it. I could visit the Lhakhang only after five years in Paro. The renovated Lhakhang. According to the caretaker, the Lhakhang is 496 years old, corresponding to 1525 (16 th century). This, he says, is according to the research done by some experts. However, he also believes that the Lhakhang is much older than what is was found out, maybe double the years that they have pointed out. According to records, Gyalchog, a descendant of Pha Dampa (Dampa was the son of Lam Phajo Drugom Zhingpo), used the place as a meditation center. However, the Lhakhang, according to the caretaker, was founded by Lam Ngawang Chogyal (brother of Lam Drukpa Kuenley). Wangchuk (2020) also believes the place was used as a meditation center by Gyalchog, the brother of Gyalzom, who later invited Lam Nagawang Chogyal. Lam...

Tshering Tshenga (The Five sisters of longevity)

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 Buddhism is never short of gods and goddesses of different forms. There are Dakinis and deities who are known to have unparalleled unseen force. These abstract forms are jewels of religion and an integral part of everyday life. The five sisters (Tashi Tsheringma in the center) PC: Dr. Dorji Wangchuk One such example is the five sisters of longevity ( ཚེ་རིང་མཆེད་ལྔ ). As the name suggests, they are five sisters who possess the power to gift us with different blessings. A ccording to the caretaker of Dzongdrakha (Paro), the sisters were demons who were subdued by Milarepa and made them the protectors of the dharma. It is also said that the sisters became the main disciples of Jetsuen Milarepa and also his secret religious consorts. However, Five sisters of long life (2008), claims the sisters to have taken the first oath from Dakini Seng gdong ma (the lion-faced). To add on, Wangchuk (personal communication, April 6, 2022), believes that the five sisters had been ferocious, as G...

Dechenpelrithang, the forgotten place of the True son.

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The stupa Pema Lingpa, the true son of Bumthang and one of the great five kings of the Tertons (Tresaure Revealers) was born in the year 1450 to Yab Dendup Zangpo and Yhum Pema Dolma. He was born on the fifteenth day of the second month of the male iron-horse year. His birth was marked with many auspicious signs, and thus, the great Terton was born. Terton Pema Lingpa, during his early days, spent his time with his grandfather, who was a blacksmith. He thus picked up the skill and mastered it. According to records, Pema Lingpa experienced an unusual dream twice. The first dream was experienced when he was just twenty-five years. The prophetic dream was experienced two years later, on the tenth day of the second month of the Monkey year, while he was asleep near Mani Goenpa. A voice from a shabbily dressed monk awakened him and handed him a scroll. Without the slightest knowledge, Pema Lingpa was urged to read it as a key to decode the predestined Terma (Treasure). Wish-fulfilling chort...

Singyethang, the plain where the lion resides

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Bhutan is a mysterious country filled with mystery and stories that are beyond our imagination, yet we Mount Jhomolhari seen from Singyethang believe and have faith in them. One such mysterious place is Singyethang. Singye in Dzongkha means lion, and thang can be translated as plain. Thus, Singyethang can be literarily translated as the plain where the lion resides or simply as the lion plain . Singyethang is located at about 3300 meters above sea level. Taking the faint trails among the woods, one has to walk about an hour from Taphag (Taphay) Goenpa in Trongsa. During the dry season, one can drive to Taphag Goenpa, from where you need to be guided by a seasoned local or a monk. The trail is so faint that one should not take the risk of visiting the place without someone who knows the place well. There are stories of pilgrims who lost their way back. The beautiful villages Walking through the woods for about one hour, one is suddenly out into a great pastureland. In the middle of th...

Guru Rimpoche’s cave and Khandros’ stove

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 The great Lopen Pema Juney visited Bhutan twice and is believed to have blessed every inch of the land. He is also believed to have hidden many treasures to be discovered later by prophesied Tertons (Treasure revelers). Guru's body print at the meditation cave . To visit one such place, walk uphill from Taphag (Taphay) Goenpa for about 45 minutes, and you will reach the open cave where Guru Rinpoche is believed to have meditated. The cave lies at an altitude of about 3150 meters above sea level. The cave has the body imprints of Guru Rinpoche. Just beside Guru’s cave, one can also see a similar cave where Khando was believed to have meditated. Without any written documents to authenticate the information, no exact time can be determined of Guru’s visit to the place, neither can pinpoint the khando. View of Trongsa from the cave. One can enjoy the scenic beauty of Trongsa town and majestic Chhoetse Rabtse Dzong, which stands like a sleeping white dog. The cave lies about five feet ...

TaPhag (Taphay) Goenpa

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  Away from the bustling of the developments, overlooking the majestic Choetse dzong, is the Taphag goenpa. The name of the goenpa was derived from the rocky cliffs located above the goenpa. One of the cliffs is believed to be the head of Tandrim (Hayagriva). The cliff is believed to be in the shape of a horse's head. One can also see footprints of the horse. The other cliff, which is about 100 meters away from the Taphag Goenpa as seen from Tandrim Nye Tandrim Nye is believed to be the blessed site of Khando Dorji Phagmo (emanation of Vajravarahi). Dorji Phagmo can be distinguished by the head of a female boar head (Varahi), which is visible above her right ear. Ta in Dzongkha refers to a horse, while phag is a pig. Thus, Taphag is the name of the goenpa. No formal records could be found about the goenpa, but oral history believes that the goenpa was blessed by Druthob Ngawang Samten. Later, His Majesty the first Druk Gyalpo built a lhakhang with nangtens (inner relics). His Majes...

When is the right time?

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  Every adult’s wish  is to have a roof over their head after their retirement. Every couple plans for a decent home as their age catches up fast with them, but the question is: when is the right time for getting things ready? Wangdi (name changed) has been a civil servant for the last 20 years in various posts and places. He knows that he is left with a decade or so to offer his service to his nation. He has been thinking and planning about a decent home for many years. Thanks to the banks in the nation, he availed a loan and purchased a plot of  land in one of the dzongkhag. With another loan from another bank, he and his wife struggled to construct a simple bungalow. It took him and his small family 5 months of sleepless nights and struggle to complete the construction. When is the right time? Once completed, the family dreamt of happiness for years to come. But things did not turn out as expected. A few months into their new home, Wangdi was transferred to another dzo...